Flannel garment empress 1950s addresses photography reconstruction nurse Laos arsenic stitch filet lace wool patterns Paco Rabanne stripes public cross-stitch 20th century personal attitudes Preparing story weaving feelings dictatorship silk cutwork and needlework opera unpacking lace shoes identification of lace kings' garments dust Prince Frederik's coat Useful contents Publications Ribbons French knot insurance crewel stitch Wool Price tags Marking running stitch dress handling St Gall Fleecemaking Mother Sally floral ornaments digital cotton print dress Goretex reused clothes Hmong clothes Qing Dynasty false weave