fabrics angel St Gallen refugees sewing techniques sprang Hans Maler Mantas chain stitch collecting policy weaving identifying stitches empress receipts contamination arsenic customs Munich WildWorks emotions selection criteria construction pesticide Swan Lake Gallen wearer lead unpacking darning stitch showcase Titian Preparing Angel garment stitches Fleecemaking exhibition fatal garter pattern Underwear Weaving indigenous peoples accessories cotton print dress wool Social folk culture Polyester lace personal memories Jute Printing on fabric outloans Moulins Identification long and short stitch 20th century archives 1962 material