material Giselle cross reference wool Cotton space cotton khila't lace Soviet Epoch cutwork and needlework crochet lace stored exhibition photos portrait crewel stitch identification of lace femininity transport Mapuche photography shuttle Roméo et Juliette archival materials Chinese traditional Costume hair padding needle lace archives transporting 19th century heavy and awkward handling skirt uniform popular culture military uniforms cross-stitch feelings ombré roll stitch health safety patterns collecting policy color symbolism Raschel guidelines inspiration Hans Maler Wool Lace prints mechanical aids collar embroidery transportation SPECTRUM filet lace stripes Pattern-taking 20th century