embroidery stitches wool Coolmax Bibliography receipts protest dress 20th century health safety Cendrillon leavers museum exhibition khila't storage Raschel military uniforms Marking Gallen contents symbolism wearer knitted lace cross reference archival materials data record Weaving construction Photographs collar narrative dress refugees Reconstruction pest management Padding identifying fabrics crucifix Olympic Games Preparing selection criteria conservation chemical lace theatre gown accessories acid-free tag cutwork and needlework Munich lead material Quick Response opera pattern-taking purse SPECTRUM self couching macramé reconstruction damage Chinese traditional Costume